There are plenty of great things to do in Kotor, such as touring the Old Town, walking the medieval walls, or going on a scenic drive around the Bay of Kotor. For those looking for a little more adventure, how about hiking the Ladder of Kotor? This hike takes you high up into the mountains behind Kotor for one of the best views of the area.
We can’t turn down a unique hiking experience and the Ladder of Kotor looked amazing. With over 70 switchbacks on a trail with a long history, this hike was one of the things we looked forward to most in Montenegro.
Table of Contents
Hiking the Ladder of Kotor
History of the Trail
The Ladder of Kotor is also known as the Ladder of Cattaro. This hiking trail is what remains from the legendary route that connected Kotor with Njegusi village and Cetinje. For centuries, this was the only path connecting Kotor and Cetinje.
From Kotor, the trail climbs up the mountains to Krstac Pass. Those who climb all of the way to the top (940 meters) will be rewarded by phenomenal views of the Bay of Kotor and beyond.
Hiking the Entire Ladder of Kotor
Distance: 6.4 km (4 miles) one way; 12.8 km (8 miles) round trip
Total Ascent: 940 meters
Difficulty: Strenuous
Length of Time: 3 to 6 hours
The trail starts next to the Old Town of Kotor. The trail ends on P1 very close to Restaurant Nevjesta Jadrana. From the Old Town to Restaurant Nevjestra Jadrana it is 4 miles one way, 8 miles round trip if you hike back to Kotor.
Our Experience
We visited Kotor in mid-April on a ten-day road trip through Montenegro, Croatia, and Bosnia & Herzegovina.
We arrived in Kotor in the early afternoon. Earlier in the day, we drove from Dubrovnik, stopping at Herceg Novi, Perast, and Our Lady of the Rocks, before arriving in Kotor. Tim and I contemplated the wisdom of starting a long, arduous hike so late in the day. But clouds and rain were in the forecast for tomorrow, so we figured that today was our best bet.
After filling Tim’s backpack with bottles of water and snacks bought in the Old Town, our hike began. It was 4 pm and we had only three and half hours of daylight left in the day.
The Trailhead
The trailhead is outside of the Old Town. To get there, walk down the road just west of the two channels of water (depending on the season this could be a dry riverbed) that sit to the west of the Old Town. The road is lined with old buildings, but you should be able to see the trail zig-zagging up the mountain in front of you.
Here are the Google coordinates for the trailhead: 42.427211, 18.773356
The Switchbacks of the Ladder of Kotor
The trail doesn’t waste any time gaining elevation. Back and forth it zigzags up the mountain. As little as ten minutes into the hike you will start to see those first amazing views over the Bay of Kotor.
The trail is very easy to follow. There are red and white blazes painted on the rocks along the trail.
The trail is very rocky and sometimes uneven. We constantly had to watch where to step so we wouldn’t twist an ankle. The higher you go, the rockier the trail seems to get.
There are at least 70 switchbacks on the trail. I read somewhere that there are exactly 72, but since we never counted them, I cannot give a definite answer of how many there really are. But it’s a lot. With so much constant climbing while zigzagging up the mountain, this hike can feel monotonous.
However, the views were spectacular. The main reason why you should do this hike is because of the view. However, since we hiked the Ladder of Kotor in the late afternoon, we were constantly looking into the setting sun as we looked out over Kotor and the bay. If you are doing this hike and want to capture the best photographs, start in the morning for the best experience.
About 30 to 45 minutes into the climb, a second trail breaks off to the right, heading over to the Chapel of St Ivan (this small church is labeled on Google Maps as Saint John; signage in Kotor refers to it as the Chapel of St Ivan) and Castle of San Giovanni. You can hike this short detour now (if you are doing this hike point to point) or save it for the return hike. Or skip it all together, of course.
Once you reach this house, you can choose to continue climbing up the Ladder of Kotor or take the trail to the Castle of San Giovanni.
Continuing up the Ladder of Kotor
We hiked the majority of the Ladder of Kotor. An hour and a half into the hike, just past the last of the main switchbacks, we decided to turn around. The dwindling sunlight forced us to end our hike early. We did not think it would be wise to hike down this rocky trail in darkness.
Chapel of St. Ivan
To return to Kotor, you have the option to take the trail towards the Castle of San Giovanni if you want to see the Chapel of St. Ivan.
After you descend down roughly half of the switchbacks of the Ladder of Kotor, turn left on the trail leading towards the castle. There are a few small houses (and one very loud dog) here.
We did this hike in 2017. At that time, we were able to hike down through the Castle of San Giovanni, turning this hike into a loop. In June 2023, we got an update that a gate was added to the window onto the castle wall (the entrance point on this part of the castle). However, more recent reports (April) state the the gate is open and you can now hike the full loop again but you will be charged €15 once you exit the bottom of the castle. For more information, read the comments at the end of this guide, to learn about other hikers experiences in recent months. If you have any new information that would help future hikers, feel free to leave a comment (we really appreciate it, and I want to give a BIG thanks to all of those who have helped keep this post updated!).
If you choose to take the detour to the Chapel of St. Ivan, it’s just a short walk to get here from the Ladder of Kotor trail. In a shady valley sits this chapel.
Castle of San Giovanni
Here are a few photos from our hike down through the Castle of San Giovanni. You can still get these same views, but you will have to enter the castle in Kotor and walk up the walls for the same views. It’s definitely a must do at some point during your visit to Kotor.
The view from the Castle of San Giovanni really is spectacular. This is one of the best spots in Kotor to watch the sunset.
From the Castle of San Giovanni, it takes about 30 minutes to descend a series of stone staircases into town. Along the way, there are still plenty of great places for photos. This shot, with the bell tower of the Church of Our Lady of Health and the Bay of Kotor, is my favorite.
The trail ends in the Old Town, very close to the Cathedral of St. Tryphon.
Our Route, in Summary
From Kotor, we hiked up the Ladder of Kotor for 3.1 miles, climbing 1925 feet. We turned around after the switchbacks ended, then took the detour to the fortress. We hiked up to the Castle of San Giovanni and then down into the Old Town. Our total distance was 6.3 miles and it took us 3 hours to do this hike.
We hiked all but 1 km of the hike. The final part of the hike travels through a pine forest and heads uphill to the road P1.
On our second day in Kotor, we drove to this point. This is the view from the end of the trail.
Alternative Routes to the Ladder of Kotor
Hiking the Ladder of Kotor Top Down
If an 8 mile hike does not sound interesting, how about hiking it one way? I am not sure how much it would cost, but if you can arrange transportation to the trailhead on P1, you could walk downhill the entire way to Kotor.
Hike Just a Portion of the Ladder of Kotor
Hike up the first part of the switchbacks. When you reach the trail that heads towards the fortress, take the detour to the Chapel of St. Ivan, see the chapel, and then hike the Ladder of Kotor back to your starting point.
How to Have the Best Experience
In the summertime it can get hot. Start this hike in the morning to beat the heat.
If you want the best photographs, the lighting is better in the morning. In the afternoon, you will be shooting directly into the setting sun.
The entire trail is on Google Maps. Cache your maps before you start your hike so you know where you are on the trail.
Hiking shoes are ideal but good supportive shoes such as running shoes work well. Tyler, Kara, and I all wore running shoes and we did not have any issues.
Please practice the seven principles of Leave No Trace: plan ahead, stay on the trail, pack out what you bring to the hiking trail, properly dispose of waste, leave areas as you found them, minimize campfire impacts, be considerate of other hikers, and do not approach or feed wildlife.
Does this look like something you would want to do? If you have any questions, comment below!
More Information about Montenegro
BALKAN PENINSULA ITINERARY: Learn how to combine Croatia, Montenegro, and Bosnia & Herzegovina into one epic road trip in our 11 Day Balkan Peninsula Itinerary.
BEST OF MONTENEGRO: On the quickest of visits, 2 days is all you need to see the highlights of Montenegro. For more inspiration, journey through Montenegro in 22 beautiful photos.
PLACES TO GO IN CROATIA: Along the Dalmatian Coast, the towns of Split, Trogir, and Dubrovnik are wonderful coastal towns to add to your Croatia itinerary. We also have information about how to visit the island of Brac, how to explore the amazing Plitvice Lakes, and visit the Istrian Peninsula.
MORE GREAT HIKES IN EUROPE: From thrilling trails in the Alps to easy walks along the coast, read our article 20 Best Hikes in Europe for some beautiful hiking trails to put on your travel wish list.
Planning a trip to Montenegro? Read all of our articles about Montenegro on our Montenegro Travel Guide.
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Comments 91
I did this hike just now and could not find a way to enter the castle after the chapel and ended up backtracking to the original switchbacks.
Ok update: so this morning I did the little hike up to the fortress and was determined to figure out how one would pass through to the chapel, either on the up the ladder or down. It turns out there is a semi-circular window in the castle wall you can climb through. Google maps takes you there as a shortcut to the old town. However, the window is high up the wall, and if you are coming from the chapel, you have to climb up close to the wall and then up a small wooden jerry-rigged sort of two step ladder, and even then your feet are probably 4 feet below the edge of the window, and you would need to be relatively tall and have upper body strength to pull yourself up and over with just the insecure-seeming ladder below you to catch you if you fell or had to give up and go back down. Having looked at it from the top, I don’t know whether I could have made it or not, since I was by myself, older, medium height, and already very tired from going to the top of the ladder. With that said, while I was there, 4 people came up, including women and older men, so maybe I should have tried! If you can make it, it is an amazing shortcut. I can’t figure out how to post a pic here, but I do have one of the ladder from the top (but not unfortunately of the window and ladder from the bottom).
Author
Thank you Martha! Your description is perfect.
Hello! Thank you for your blog it has been really helpful for our trip to Kotor (April 2024). Update on the hole / gate in the fortress from back – the gate / hole is still open but they charged €15 each at the bottom if you go through the fort to the old town.
Author
Thanks so much for the update! Cheers, Julie
Confirmed that as of 01 Nov 2023 that the window is open and large numbers of tourists were transiting the threshold. Everyone seems to have gotten the hint that if you enter that way you should leave the same or be charged the admission at the bottom without a ticket for the exit scan.
I walked almost to the top of the Ladder today (had to turn back due to inclement weather) and then back through the fortress / San Giovanni. The window in the wall was wide open.
Do note you need to lift yourself up, and children or very short adults might need help.
There is no fee if you hike up and down from the Eastern entrance, however even hiking down into the Old Town I had to pay 8€.
The entrance outside of the Old Town is not signposted. Trust your phone or ask for directions.
Author
Thanks for the updates!